Canon EOS-6D Black Friday Deal - $999 Including Shipping

There is a top-rated merchant on eBay selling the Canon EOS-6D camera for $999 including free shipping. This is an excellent deal for anyone thinking of upgrading to full frame digital photography from either a Rebel or Powershot camera.

Although I am not a fan of the Canon EOS-6D, this camera can be a good value for those who want to enter the world of full frame photography on a limited budget. Read my earlier post on the Canon EOS-5D Mark III vs. EOS-6D comparison and the Nikon D600 is added in for the three way comparison. For those trying to decide between the EOS-7D Mark II and EOS-6D, read my post on their comparison. Expect the Mark II version to make its debut some time in 2016.

My own preference is to buy a refurbished or well maintained EOS-5D Mark III instead.You can read my guide to the best Canon cameras. You will not find a link to this eBay item because I do not accept any ad or commissioned link on my Blog or website and do not endorse any particular company. I am completely unbiased in my reporting and have no conflict of interest. Find the listing on eBay yourself easily. You can see my equipment bag and works on MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D full frame camera Major Specifications :

•     20.2MP CMOS Sensor
•     DIGIC 5+ Image Processor
•     3.0 inch 1.04M pixel Clear View LCD Monitor
•     Full HD 1080p Video Recording at 30 fps
•     11-Point AF with Center Cross-Type Point
•     Native ISO 25600, Extended to ISO 102400
•     4.5 fps Shooting at Full Resolution
•     Built-In Wi-Fi and GPS Connectivity
•     iFCL 63-Zone Dual Layer Metering Sensor
•     In-Camera HDR & Multiple Exposure Mode

Canon EOS-6D Firmware 1.1.6 Released

Canon EOS-6D full frame DSLR camera

Canon has released a software update to the EOS-6D camera. Firmware Version 1.1.6 incorporates the following fixes :

• Fixes a phenomenon in which the camera may not first use the center AF point to focus, when the AF point selection is set to automatic in AI Servo AF mode.
• Fixes a phenomenon in which focus cannot be finely adjusted with specific lenses when shooting remotely with EOS Utility software.
• Corrects some Ukrainian language displayed on the menu for ISO Setting.

Firmware Version 1.1.6 is for cameras with firmware up to Version 1.1.4. If the camera’s firmware is already Version 1.1.6, it is not necessary to update the firmware. Click here for download. You can also see a comparison of the recently released EOS-7D Mk II vs. the EOS-6D.

Canon EOS-6D Camera - $1300 Shipped

Canon EOS-6D full frame DSLR camera

There is a top-rated merchants on eBay selling the Canon EOS-6D camera for $1,300 including free shipping. Hurry, it won't last. This is an excellent deal even though I am not a fan of this body but for those who want to get into full frame digital photography, this is probably one of the best value around. For my money, I will get a Canon refurbished EOS-5D Mk III first before considering this model. You can see my post on the EOS-5D vs. EOS-6D comparison.

You will not find a link to this eBay item because I do not accept any ad or commissioned link on my Blog or website. I am completely unbiased in my recommendation and have no conflict of interest. You can see travel and wildlife photos taken with this camera on my worldwide photo shoots on MichaelDanielHo.com

How To Share Photos On Canon iMAGE Gateway

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D - Transfer Photos Between WiFi Enabled Cameras

Canon USA has posted the above tutorial video explaining how to transfer images between the EOS-6D and other WiFi enabled cameras, like selected PowerShot models.

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D - WiFi Setup and Remote Capture Tutorial Videos

Canon USA has posted the following tutorial videos explaining how to enable the Built-in WiFi and utilize Remote Capture on the EOS-6D camera :

•     Basic Overview
•     The Auto Options
•     Image Quality
•     In-Camera RAW and JPEG Processing
•     Composition Aids
•     Low Light Shooting
•     Multiple Exposure Shooting
•     Auto Exposure Bracketing
•     In-Camera HDR
•     Basic Video Operation
•     Built-in GPS Technology
•     Time Coding Operation Basics
•     Built-In Wireless : How to Enable WiFi
•     Built-In Wireless : Remote Capture

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D Auto Exposure Bracketing Tutorial

Canon USA has put out a tutorial video on how to use Auto Exposure Bracketing on the full frame EOS-6D camera. I am not a big fan of this camera although it can be a good value for those who are limited in their equipment budget. See the other videos on multiple exposures and in camera HDR as well.

Read my post on the EOS-5D vs. EOS-6D comparison and my guide to the best Canon DSLR cameras. You can see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com 

Canon Quick Tips - Photographing Fireworks

4th of July is just around the corner. Canon Digital Learning Center has put out an article on how to photograph fireworks. Keep experimenting and happy shooting. Below is the article in its entirety.

Fireworks are one of the most inspiring and photogenic, yet challenging subjects, to capture. And unfortunately, this is one of those shooting situations where fully automatic exposure and focusing may not help. However, with these tricks up your sleeve, a few accessories and a willingness to experiment, you'll capture amazing fireworks photos this Fourth of July!
Setting up for fireworks

Try to arrive early enough to scout out a good location to take pictures from. You don’t necessarily need to be close to where the fireworks will be launched from, but you want to be sure you’ll have a clear, unobstructed view of open sky where you expect them to explode. The closer you are to the fireworks, the more you’ll have to aim the camera upward to capture them, and the wider a lens you’ll generally need to get them into the frame without cutting part of the fireworks out of the picture.

Be aware of factors like wind. Fireworks produce smoke and if you’re downwind from where they’re launched from, you’ll be shooting through a veil of smoke that’ll interfere with your color, sharpness and exposure after the first few bursts.

And of course, try to find a location where you won’t be partially blocked by other people viewing the fireworks and, likewise, where you won’t be an obstruction to others in attendance. You won’t be able to avoid crowds completely — but by arriving early, you hopefully can find a location that combines a clear view and is a bit offset from crowds of people.

Bring a few things to keep you comfortable: a portable lawn chair, mosquito repellent and perhaps a lightweight long-sleeve shirt to minimize problems with biting insects on summer nights. Since you may be waiting around for a while for the show to start, don’t forget things like water. A small, clean hand towel can be helpful on hot nights to prevent sweat from getting onto the camera or your lens. And while it’s not a comfort item, a small flashlight can be invaluable for changing camera settings after dark.

Camera Settings: Exposure modes

Get out of AUTO! With near-black nighttime skies and the illumination from bright, thin streaks of fireworks, this is one instance where your camera’s automatic exposure system simply can’t be expected to deliver proper results. In all likelihood, Evaluative Metering and auto exposure in an EOS camera will try to render the dark skies to a middle shade of gray and, in doing so, grossly wash-out your fireworks. There’s a better answer:

Turn your camera’s mode dial to “M” for Manual and manually select a shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Or, set the camera to its “Bulb” setting — more on that in a moment.

Even though we speak at length about dialing-in your own specific shutter speeds, this is one instance where (usually) shutter-priority (the Tv mode) on your camera won’t be an ideal choice. Like any form of automatic exposure, the Tv mode can be fooled by broad expanses of dark sky and end up over-exposing the fireworks you’re hoping to capture.
Camera Settings: Shutter speeds

Long exposures at slow shutter speeds are the norm for photographing fireworks. Most shooters experiment with long shutter speeds anywhere from one full second to 30 seconds or longer for fireworks. These relatively long exposures will allow the burst from the fireworks to produce moving streaks, which can be stunning against a dark sky. There’s no “right” shutter speed here, so many users will try different speeds to get a feel for the sorts of fireworks pictures that result. With the camera set to Manual exposure mode, simply turn the Main Dial on top of the camera to set the speed you want to use.

Since many digital SLR shooters rarely venture into the range of slow shutter speeds, it’s helpful to remember that with all Canon EOS cameras, any shutter speed of one full second or longer is indicated by two “quote marks” after the number displayed in the viewfinder and on the body’s information panel. In other words :

    5" = five full seconds shutter speed
    0' '5 = one half-second shutter speed
    5 = one fifth-second (1/5) shutter speed

When manually dialing-in shutter speeds for fireworks, most users will want to see speeds with the two digital quote marks displayed after the number. Remember, the longer the shutter speed, the longer the trails of light for each fireworks burst will be in your images.
Multiple fireworks bursts in one image:

At longer shutter speeds, such as 10 seconds or more, it’s sometimes possible for two or more fireworks to be captured in one single exposure. How multiple bursts of fireworks will line up in a picture is unpredictable, but it’s definitely something to experiment with. You can dial-in timed shutter speeds as long as 30 seconds with all Canon EOS cameras. But for shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds, you’ll need to switch to the BULB setting, where you can hold the shutter open for as long as the shutter button is kept in its fully depressed position.

BULB with EOS Rebel models :

Set camera to Manual (M) mode; turn top Main Dial to progressively slower shutter speeds, until “BULB” is displayed

Most other EOS models :

Turn Mode Dial to “B” setting. With EOS-1D and 1Ds series models, press MODE button and turn top Main Dial until “bulb” appears on top LCD info panel

Camera settings : Lens apertures

Manual exposure mode requires you to set an appropriate lens aperture, as well as shutter speed. Here are a few points to keep in mind:

There is no “correct” aperture for fireworks shooting! In general, especially at longer shutter speeds (such as eight seconds or longer), you’ll want to stop the lens down to smaller apertures, such as f/11 or thereabouts, to ensure the fireworks aren’t over-exposed and washed-out.
Smaller lens openings (higher f-numbers, such as f/16) will tend to give you thinner fireworks streaks with richer color saturation and less tendency to wash-out (especially if more than one burst of fireworks appears in the same image). 

If you do use shorter shutter speeds (such as 1 second), this is an instance where you should start out at wider lens apertures, such as f/4 or f/2.8. Adjust as needed after shooting and viewing the first few fireworks shots you take.

Don’t pay attention to the metering scale in your viewfinder! Normally a reliable tool when setting exposure in Manual mode, this scale will read the dark sky and try to guide you into a middle-gray rendering of this dark expanse — exactly what you don’t want in fireworks pictures. Set an initial shutter speed and lens aperture in Manual mode, shoot a picture or two and look at them on your LCD monitor. Adjust shutter speed and/or lens aperture as needed but, again, fireworks are an unusual type of photographic subject, so ignore that metering scale!

Be sure you know how to set lens apertures in Manual or Bulb mode with your camera. With EOS Rebel models, press the Av/± button (hold it in) and turn the top Main Dial. For other EOS models, turn the large Quick Control Dial on the back of the camera to adjust aperture when in Manual and Bulb mode.
Camera settings: ISOs

Even though you’re shooting the nighttime sky, fireworks are generally a situation where you want low ISO settings. Unless you’re trying to use shutter speeds faster than perhaps 1/8 or 1/4 of a second, we normally would suggest manually dialing-in low ISOs such as 100 or 200.

Once again, we usually suggest that you bypass the Auto ISO settings in your camera. They are a potentially valuable asset in “normal” daylight shooting conditions, but fireworks represent an unusual type of lighting that doesn’t lend itself well to most types of automatic exposure control.
Image Controls in EOS cameras

Aside from the exposure control settings we recommend above as good starting points for fireworks, there are a couple of other settings you may want to consider which can impact the image quality of your fireworks pictures:

Highlight Tone Priority

This can be a big benefit in fireworks pictures — helping to add color and vitality to streaks of fireworks, and minimizing that washed-out look to bright highlight areas. It can be set with nearly any recent EOS camera, and works at any shutter speed. About its only limitation is that when it’s active, the lowest available ISO speed is now 200, rather than ISO 100. Regardless, this is a setting that should be strongly considered.

Neutral Picture Style

This will similarly tend to reduce contrast, expand your dynamic range, and give you color in bright fireworks streaks that might have been rendered as a washed-out, bordering-on-white tone at factory-default settings. Fireworks pictures are rarely about increasing detail in dark sky tones — we usually want them to be dark in the finished pictures — but anything that can enhance bright highlights in your fireworks is helpful.  These two features are worth trying the next time you shoot fireworks images.

Supporting and firing your camera

There’s no getting around it: a firm support (ideally, a tripod) is mandatory for satisfactory results when shooting fireworks. Even if you’re using an image stabilized lens, the likelihood that you can hand-hold that and the camera completely steadily at slow shutter speeds, like one second or longer, is pretty slim.

Once the camera is mounted on the tripod, you’re still faced with firing it without the risk of having the camera shake from your finger pressing the shutter button. Anything you can do to minimize the impact from physically pressing the shutter button is helpful. Here are some of your options:

Use the self-timer

Activating the camera’s self-timer still requires you to press the shutter, but gives either a 2-10 second delay before the shutter actually fires — giving the camera a few moments to “settle down” from any shaking after the camera was touched. The problem is that you no longer can precisely time your shots to match when a fireworks rocket is launched upward. But at longer speeds, when you expect to have the shutter open to capture multiple bursts, the self-timer may be a viable option.

Use an accessory Canon Remote Controller

An electronic remote control switch (sometimes generically referred to as an “electronic cable release”) is a short cable that connects to the camera and has its own shutter button. By pressing this button, you can trigger the shutter without directly transferring shake to the camera and lens. One huge benefit of the Remote Controllers is that their shutter button can be physically locked in its fully depressed position with a sliding lock switch, allowing the camera’s shutter to remain open steadily for long Bulb exposures.

Here is a list of which Canon Remote Controllers work on which EOS cameras :

Canon Remote

EOS Digital Rebels (all); EOS 60D; EOS 70D :  Remote Controller RS60-E3

EOS 5D series (all); EOS 6D; EOS 7D; EOS 10D - 50D : Remote Controller RS80-N3, Timer Remote Controller TC80-N3

EOS-1D, EOS-1Ds (all versions) : Remote Controller RS80-N3, Timer Remote Controller TC80-N3

Use an accessory wireless infrared remote control

Canon also makes cordless remote controllers, which fire an infrared beam to trigger the shutter on compatible EOS cameras. The compact and affordable RC-1, RC-5 and RC-6 remote controllers work with specific EOS models, allowing them to be fired up to about 15 feet from the camera. The professional-grade LC-5 remote controller is a set with a separate transmitter and receiver for cameras compatible with the “N3” type remotes listed above. The shooter can be up to about 300 feet (100m) from the camera with the LC-5.

Unlike the cord-type remote controllers, the infrared cordless ones cannot hold the shutter open in Bulb mode. They can, however, be used when you manually set a shutter speed, down to 30 seconds.
    
Use your Android or iOS mobile device to remotely fire select EOS cameras

The EOS 6D is the first Canon EOS model to have built-in Wi-Fi capability. One option with this system is to download Canon’s free “EOS Remote” app to your phone, connect the camera and phone, then remotely fire the camera from the phone. You can even see a live view of the scene through the lens of the camera on the phone before you fire it, then see the finished image after it’s taken. The phone can be up to about 100 feet (30m) from the camera. Bulb mode can be used with EOS Remote and your mobile device, with the camera’s shutter remaining open as long as you keep the button on the phone’s LCD screen depressed (there is no separate locking switch for long bulb exposures). To check out other features the EOS 6D is capable of, check out our on-camera tutorials.

Techniques for taking fireworks pictures

Option 1: Bulb mode for one fireworks burst

With the camera pre-positioned and set to Bulb mode, watch for a fireworks shell to be launched upward. Press the shutter button to open the shutter and keep it open for the burst to occur. Wait a few moments after the initial burst to record the streaks and any secondary bursts that may occur. Then remove your finger from the button to end the Bulb exposure.

Option 2: Bulb mode for multiple bursts

Same as above, but after the first burst, keep the shutter open for another burst or two. Don’t go overboard, because as multiple bursts on one image build-up, you can easily run into over-exposure. Depending upon where each appears on the image, the beauty of individual bursts can become more of a jumble of random streaks. Two or three bursts can be effective, but don’t feel like you have to keep the shutter open for a minute or longer — you’ll likely just over-expose the scene.

Option 3: Bulb mode for long exposures — the “Baseball hat technique”

Leaving the camera’s shutter open for long periods in Bulb mode to capture multiple bursts can be effective when they occur in quick succession, but (especially early on in a fireworks show), some time may occur between each shell launch. If you’re looking to get multiple bursts in this situation, bring an opaque baseball cap to cover the lens in between each burst while the shutter remains open in Bulb mode. This is especially easy if you’re using an accessory electronic remote switch with a locking shutter button.

Let the camera capture the first explosion, then immediately (and gently) drape the baseball hat over the lens, to cover it. Leave the shutter open, with the remote’s button still in its locked position. When the next bursts go skyward, remove the hat to expose the imaging sensor and after it’s completed, “cover” the lens with the hat again. Don’t mix too many fireworks bursts this way, but experiment with different numbers of them. When you’ve got enough for one picture, slide the locking switch to unlock the remote’s shutter button and the exposure ends. You’re ready for the next bulb-timed picture. If you don't have a baseball hat, any solid object large enough to fully cover the front of the lens should work fine (such as a piece of cardboard).

Option 4: Use faster shutter speeds to “freeze” a fireworks burst

Unlike many shooters who use long shutter exposures, Canon Product Educator Jim Dicecco has had great success using shorter speeds.

Jim explains: “Fireworks are much easier to shoot than most people expect. However, you do need to plan ahead. Here is my usual equipment: a digital camera, a wide-angle zoom lens (my favorite focal length for shooting fireworks with a full-frame camera is about 24mm, or a 15mm lens on cameras like an EOS Rebel or 70D), a remote shutter release and a small tripod.

“My camera settings are usually:  ISO 100, Bulb mode (generally held open for about half a second to two seconds) and the aperture all the way open (usually around f/2.8, f/3.5 or f/4 depending on the lens). Focus is usually set to infinity but the first few fireworks can help establish focus. I prefer using cameras with Live View so I can watch while I'm shooting. When the shot is taken, it is all about timing. I look for the rockets to take off and try to time the explosion. I use the remote release so not to move the camera and hold down the button watching as the fireworks expand to the point where I want to stop the exposure. It’s all about timing the expansion of the display in the air. Post-production consists mostly of cropping since composition was difficult to control under these circumstances (one reason for the wide angle lens).

“Finally, don’t even think of trying to use flash! It won’t help capture distant fireworks though it will help illuminate objects or people in the foreground if you want to take portraits with fireworks in the background.”

Focusing the lens

Now, turn the focus ring until you’re set at infinity focus. Some Canon lenses have a distance scale printed on them for this purpose, but others (like the popular EF-S 18-55mm kit lens) do not. If you don’t have a distance scale, with the lens set to “MF” and the front of the lens facing you (as if you’re staring into the lens), turn the focus ring with your fingers clockwise until it stops. Now leave it there and do not set it back to “AF” until you’re done shooting fireworks.
Digital “noise” in long exposures

Any time a digital camera’s shutter is held open for longer than a few seconds, for technical reasons, it’s possible to see an increase in visible digital “noise” in the picture. This is sort of like film grain or the “snow” you might see on a TV screen with weak reception. As shutter speeds get progressively longer (10 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute and so on), this noise can build up and become increasingly apparent. Most Canon EOS digital SLRs have an available feature called “Long Exposure Noise Reduction,” which can be activated by either a Custom Function or menu setting.

Some users wonder why this noise reduction feature isn’t always on at all times. The answer is that using it can slow down your shooting of one picture after another. To do its job, Long Exposure Noise Reduction has to re-energize your imaging sensor and take a “blank” exposure, after your actual picture is taken, for the same length of time. During this time, you cannot shoot another picture — the red card “busy light” on the back of the camera stays on until the process is completed. If you shoot a 30 second exposure, the camera has to be tied-up for an additional 30 full seconds to process before your next picture can be taken. This can be a problem during rapid repeating bursts of fireworks.

As a practical matter, the noise build-up at shutter speeds of 30 seconds or shorter (10 seconds, 1 second and so on) is so minimal that you’re usually better off leaving this noise reduction off for fireworks shooting. But if you do anticipate using the “baseball hat” technique and utilizing longer bulb exposure times, you may find a noticeable quality boost if this feature is set to on. Long Exposure Noise Reduction only applies to images taken at shutter speeds of one second or longer and is ignored at shorter speeds like 1/2 second, 1/60th and so on. Finally, don’t confuse this with “High ISO Noise Reduction” on your camera’s menu. They’re two separate and independent things.
Your camera’s battery life during long exposures

Generally, the battery in an EOS digital SLR can power the camera for hundreds of pictures in ordinary daylight conditions. But longer shutter speeds require more battery power to hold the shutter open and build-up exposure on the imaging sensor. If you shoot a series of long exposures, you definitely need to be aware that batteries won’t last as long. For long exposures, camera makers rate the battery power in terms of total length of time a freshly charged battery can hold the shutter open. Here are a few examples supplied by Canon’s engineers at 73°F/23°C — keep in mind that these don’t factor-in use of the LCD monitor, such as Live View shooting, or playing-back images during shooting:

    EOS Rebel series: Approx. 2 ~ 2.5 hours
    EOS 60D: Approx. 6 hours
    EOS 70D: Approx. 4 hours
    EOS 7D, EOS 50D: Approx. 2.5 hours
    EOS 5D Mark II and Mark III: Approx. 4 hours

Most Canon EOS digital SLRs accept an optional Battery Grip, which does allow the photographer to install one or two rechargeable batteries. With two batteries installed, any of the above figures would be doubled. Battery grips with an extra battery pack can be a great accessory for extensive shooting of fireworks displays.

Composition in fireworks shots

No matter what kind of subjects or photography we’re speaking of, great pictures begin with great composition — that is, the placement and arrangement of subjects in the image.

Fireworks pictures are no different, but they present a challenge since you can’t see your final subject until it explodes in the night sky and you’re actually capturing it.

You don’t always want to be among the spectators closest to the fireworks themselves. By backing off and occasionally using a telephoto lens, it’s sometimes easier to get good, sharp images of a burst of fireworks, compared to looking upward with a wider-angle lens.

Look at the first burst or two to judge how much of the sky they take up, how high they go and what lens(es) will be appropriate for the types of shots you’re looking for. Remember, you can back-off with a wide-angle lens and incorporate more of the surrounding area (possibly a powerful technique near a city skyline) or you can zoom in with more of a telephoto lens to emphasize the colors from the fireworks themselves with less emphasis on the surrounding sky.

Just as when you’re shooting pictures of people, consider whether to use horizontal or vertical composition. Try to look through the viewfinder during the first burst or two to judge what will most effectively fill the frame and the amount of background information you want. Also, don’t let your eyes play tricks on you when you look through your viewfinder or use the Live View feature on your camera: it’s easy to concentrate visually on the fireworks’ burst as it happens and lose sight of the fact that there may be large black areas of surrounding sky that you’re not taking into account. Always try to judge the position and size of the subject in the context of the entire picture area, from corner to corner. The Live View feature of many recent EOS models can be useful to get an idea from the first burst or two of how the frame will be filled.

Try mixing things up as you shoot the show. Change lens apertures, alter the number of bursts you capture on a single frame, vary your zoom setting, shoot some pictures with foreground details and others where you’re zoomed in more on the sky. The more you shoot, the better the chances of some really exciting pictures.

Canon EOS-6D In-Camera HDR Tutorial

Canon USA has put out a tutorial video on how to take High Dynamic Range photos on the full frame EOS-6D camera. I am not a big fan of this camera although it can be a good value for those who are limited in their equipment budget. See the other videos on multiple exposures and Auto Exposure Bracketing as well.

Read my post on the EOS-5D vs. EOS-6D comparison and my guide to the best Canon DSLR cameras. You can see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com 

Multiple Exposures With Canon EOS-6D Camera

Canon USA has put out a tutorial video on how to use multiple exposures on the full frame EOS-6D camera. I am not a big fan of this camera although it can be a good value for those who are limited in their equipment budget. See the other video on taking High Dynamic Range photos as well.

Read my post on the EOS-5D vs. EOS-6D comparison and my guide to the best Canon DSLR cameras. You can see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com 

Canon Professional Network On DPP 4.0 Software

Canon has launched Digital Photo Professional (DPP) 4.0, the first sweeping overhaul of Canon’s RAW processing software since its launch. The latest version of DPP - available for download at the end of June - has been updated with a raft of key changes to satisfy the most demanding of digital photographers. For those who can't wait, you can download the software now from Canon's Australia website.

Canon software engineers – having the unique advantage of being able to directly harness the power of the Canon sensors, DIGIC processors and lenses – have made the all-new Digital Photo Professional 4.0 a much faster, more dynamic, linear and feature-packed image editing software solution, thanks to the ability to fully utilise 64-bit architecture. The latest version of DPP has been designed and developed from the ground up, tailored to the workflows of professional and high-end amateurs to help them realise the key EOS System concepts of speed, ease of use and high image quality.

New, improved Canon algorithms have been optimised to make the most of the wealth of information delivered by the camera sensors, while productivity has been increased thanks to improved speed of RAW image display and developing that makes real-time image adjustment a reality.

DPP 4.0 ALL-NEW KEY FEATURES

•     Faster, real-time adjustments.
•     Improved RAW file workflow.
•     Better, more approachable user interfaces.
•     Compatible with 64-bit native environments.
•     Colour adjustments for specific colour gamuts.
•     Improved highlight recovery provides expanded tonality.
•     Improved shadow recovery function.
•     Support for movie playback.
•     Auto Lighting Optimizer can be applied to JPEG images.
•     Better integration with EOS Utility.

The all-new Digital Photo Professional has been re-engineered to give the most discerning photographers a far more comprehensive set of tools and functionalities to get the most from their images.

NEW COLOUR ADJUSTMENT PALETTE

A new colour adjustment palette allows hue, saturation and luminance adjustment for eight individual colour gamuts, enabling the user to adjust one specific colour in isolation without affecting the image as a whole. This is particularly useful when adjusting background tones in portraits, where there might previously have been a risk of giving a colour cast to skin tones, for example.
enlarge image

The all-new DPP 4.0 features faster real-time processing and offers a secondary image window, which can be used as a magnifier for detailed inspection of chosen areas of an image.

ENHANCED HIGHLIGHT FUNCTION

Canon software developers have re-engineered the processing algorithms to increase the freedom in tonal rendering. By adjusting highlights, it is now possible to reproduce tones such as those in clouds and peoples’ faces that would previously have appeared washed out.

DUAL DISPLAY SUPPORT

For those photographers with dual monitors, DPP 4.0 allows a secondary monitor to be used as the preview window on the primary display. While the main monitor can be used to perform delicate adjustments, a secondary image window for images can be used as a magnifier for closer inspection of part of an image.

BETTER EOS UTILITY INTEGRATION

With the launch of DDP 4.0 comes an updated EOS Utility 3 and the two pieces of software now offer better integration. The introduction of EOS Utility 3 makes it is possible to trigger the camera direct from the DPP tool palette as well as access to all the rest of the EOS Utility remote shooting functions without the need to start a separate application, thus enabling a more streamlined and integrated workflow.

CAMERA COMPATIBILITY AND OS SUPPORT

At launch, DPP 4.0 is compatible with Canon’s current range of full-frame DSLRs, including the EOS-1D X, EOS-1D C, EOS 5D Mark III and EOS 6D. For other models, an update of DPP 3.14 will be released.

Please note: DPP 4.0 will be compatible only with 64-bit OS, such as Windows 7, 8 and 8.1, plus Mac OS X 10.8 and 10.9.

Canon UK Offers £400 Trade In With EOS-1D X

Make your next purchase go further with a £400 trade in on selected DSLR models when you buy the Canon EOS-1D X camera.

The EOS-1D X is Canon’s most technically advanced DSLR, combining full frame image quality with super high speed shooting of up to 14 fps and with an expanded ISO of up to 204,800. It has been my pick as the best DSLR camera on the market two years in a row, especially with the release of Firmware 2.0.3 earlier this year. You can see my work with the EOS-1D X on worldwide photo shoots on MichaelDanielHo.com

The following Canon and Nikon cameras are included in the offer :

EOS 1D, 1Ds, 1D Mk II, 1Ds MK II, 1D Mk II N, 1D Mk III, 1D Mk IV, EOS 5D, 5D Mk II,
5D Mk III, 6D, 70D, 60D, 50D                  

Nikon D4, D3s, D3X, D3, D2HS, D2X, D2H, D1H, D700, D600, D300s, D300

Canon Explains Custom Functions On Their Camera Lineup

Canon Custom Functions explained

Most EOS digital cameras offer Custom Functions. These allow you to alter the way the camera operates to suit your own personal needs. Exposure, focusing and flash are just some of the areas covered by the functions. Each function has a factory-defined default setting, plus one or more alternative settings.

Custom Functions are set through the camera menu system. Find and select ‘Custom Functions’ and you will bring up a screen with each Custom Function number displayed. Select the appropriate number and you will be taken to a screen where you can select from the various options for that custom function.

The display will usually indicate which functions are no longer at their default setting. You can either go to each function to change the setting, or go to the ‘Clear Setting: menu option’ to reset all the custom functions to the default settings.

On some models, it is possible to register up to three groups of Custom Function settings. This means you can change a number of different Custom Functions and save all these change under one group registration. This saves you the time and trouble of going through and changing each custom setting individually the next time you want to use the same set. You could, for example, have one group of settings for landscape photography, and another for sports shooting.

For previous generation cameras, a specific Custom Function is usually written as C.Fn.-XX-Y, where the first number (XX) is the Custom Function reference, and the second number (Y) is the selected option within that function. The default setting for each Custom Function is usually ‘0’. So custom function 12 (mirror lockup) is written as either C.Fn.-12-0 (lockup disabled) or C.Fn.-12-1 (lockup enabled). On the EOS-1D/Ds Mark III models as well as the latest generation of consumer level cameras like the EOS 40D, EOS 50D, EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 7D and EOS-1D Mark IV, Custom Functions have been separated into four groups: Group I for Exposure, Group II for Image/Flash exp/Display, Group III for Auto focus/Drive and Group IV for Operation/Others.

These new settings are written as C.Fn XX-Y-Z where XX is the group, Y is the Custom Function and Z is the setting, for example C.Fn IV-3-1.

The first table below shows how many Custom Functions some of the most recent EOS cameras have and how they are grouped. The number of Custom Functions varies from camera to camera as does the reference number for a particular function. Since Custom Functions are a personal choice, there are no settings you have to make. However, it is wise to spend time acquainting yourself with the various Custom Functions on your particular EOS camera to then decide if they are useful for your photography and which functions you prefer to use. The second table below shows the Custom Functions on the EOS-1D X and EOS 5D Mark III DSLRs.

Check out the entire article on Canon's website.

Canon EOS-6D Camera Takes 18,000 Photos Of London

Paul Richardson put together an impressive motion time-lapse tour of London — capturing the pulse of one of the world’s most beloved and busiest cities. The project took him eight days and 200 miles of biking (while carrying 48 lbs of camera equipment) to capture 18,000 photos for the first rough cut. 

He used a Canon EOS-6D full frame camera plus the EF 17-40mm f/4, EF 50mm f/1.8, and the EF 70-200mm f/4 lenses. Motion sequences were shot using a home-built dolly and an Emotimo TB3. As he explains in his video, Restless Nights is about capturing “The true 24/7 nature of bustling London. It really is a place that never sleeps."  

'The man who is tired of London, is tired of life."  You can see many travel photos of England on my website - MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D vs. Nikon D600 High ISO Comparison

The King of high ISO performance is the EOS-1D X camera. You can read my article here. For those who may not need or cannot afford a professional camera, the EOS-6D can be a good choice.

David Kingham has been a devoted Nikon shooter for a long time. He used the Nikon D600 for a few months this summer and was quite pleased with it shooting night photos. Since he makes a living from night photography, he made the bold move of switching to Canon and purchased the EOS-6D. He was pleased with his decision. Below is an excerpt from his article :

"The high ISO capabilities of the Canon 6D are remarkable. I can see myself regularly shooting at ISO 12,800 when needed. With this body it is plausible to shoot with an f/4 lens! I wouldn't recommend that necessarily, but if you already have f/4 lenses and are looking to get into night photography for a very affordable price...this is your answer. The colors produced by the 6D are consistently better to my eye. If you're devoted to Nikon, the D600 is no slouch. You likely shouldn't trade away all your gear to switch.

This test is intended to compare the high ISO capabilities of these cameras specifically for dark sky night photography. The Nikon D600 has been superseded by the D610. The sensor is the same, they just fixed the oil spot problem.

All images were taken with a Rokinon 14mm f/2.8. I used a Novoflex adapter on the Canon to attach the Nikon mount lens. You will see the stars are slightly softer on the Canon, this is likely due to the adapter changing the focus slightly, but has no bearing on this test. Pay attention to noise and colors.

I started at ISO 6400. The images have no adjustments applied, except white balance (I used my unique method of setting white balance). Below you can see the D600 has a bit more of a green cast in the sky than the 6D, if I go too far to the magenta side on tint the sky becomes too purple and unnatural. Of course this can be fixed with a bit of work, but I prefer spending less time in post myself. You can also see how the little bit of light pollution on the horizon is enhanced in the Nikon, I prefer the more balanced sky the Canon provides."

"Below is a 100% crop of the Andromeda galaxy. Here you can clearly see less noise on the 6D, as expected they are not significantly different. But the 6D does have the clear advantage."

"Next we look at the shadow areas, to me this is the most important for night landscapes. The foreground is extremely underexposed, causing significant noise. Again, the 6D has a significant advantage."

"In the next image I pushed the Shadows adjustment to +100 in Lightroom to see what detail could be pulled from the shadows, which I often do myself. Now the 6D starts walking away from the D600. But wait, the dynamic range on the D600 is supposed to be light years ahead of the 6D? An important thing to keep in mind when looking at dynamic range numbers is that they test at ISO 100, this has no translation to ISO 6400. So yes, the D600 will be better at ISO's up to 400 or so, but after that the 6D is king.

Time to push these cameras a bit farther, ISO 12,800 now. This is considered out of spec on the Nikon and is called H1. The image out of the D600 is getting questionable, it may be usable in some situations, but I would avoid using this ISO. The 6D is still looking quite clean though."

"Now up to ISO 25,600. This is the highest in spec ISO for the 6D and the highest you can possibly go on the D600 (H2). The D600's image is unusable at this point. But the 6D is looking similar to what the D600 was at 12,800, potentially usable still."

"In the last image I took a shot from D600 at ISO 6400 and a shot from the 6D at 25,600 and dropped the exposure of the 6D's image by 2 stops to see how much better the 6D really is. As you can see the images are very close. I would say the 6D has about a 1.5 stop advantage over the D600."

Canon EOS-6D camera for $1,547 on eBay

The Canon EOS-6D camera is offered for sale by a highly rated (99.6%) seller on eBay for $1,547 including shipping within the United States. I am not a big fan of this camera although it is an excellent value for those who want to enter the world of full frame DSLR camera.

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D Firmware 1.1.3 Released

Canon released the latest Firmware, Version 1.1.3 for the EOS-6D camera. You can download the software from Canon's website. The camera has a list price of $1,999 but a reputable eBay seller is selling a new one, with USA warranty and free shipping for $1,700.


Firmware Version 1.1.3 Incorporates the Following Fix :

1. Fixes a phenomenon in which the Date/Time/Zone settings screen appears on the LCD display, after the user has already configured these settings. The values for the Date/Time settings may reset if the backup functions which retain those values do not perform properly.

Even if the camera does not exhibit this phenomenon currently, it may in the future. Accordingly, we recommend that you update the Firmware in the camera to version 1.1.3 as soon as possible.

Firmware Version 1.1.3 is for cameras with firmware up to version 1.1.2. If the camera’s firmware is already Version 1.1.3, it is not necessary to update the firmware. Before downloading the firmware update for your camera, please review the instructions thoroughly.

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D New Firmware Coming

Canon is preparing an update of the firmware on the EOS-6D camera. Among the tweaks and fixing the bugs, an autofocus feature down to f/8, like the EOS-1D series and soon to be EOS-5D Mk III bodies, may be introduced.

This would be an interesting development, if true, because up to now, only the professional EOS-1D series bodies have that capability. Canon announced a few months ago they will release a new Firmware in April for the EOS-5D Mk III to include that feature but to add the EOS-6D (their least expensive full frame camera) to this exclusive list of cameras (in my opinion) may not be a wise move.

MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-6D Body For $1,748 Shipped

Canon EOS-6D with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens 

The Canon EOS-6D body is now selling for $1,748 on eBay, including free shipping within the United States. I am not surprised. Although the EOS-6D is a good camera, it is still an entry level full frame DSLR with some gee-whiz stuff like WiFi and GPS, etc. To me, that is less useful than real features like more AF points, better ISO and frame rate performance, like its big brother, the EOS-5D Mk III. For those who have decided to purchase the EOS-6D, this sounds like a great deal. The camera lists for $2,099.

You can read my comparison of the two cameras and decided for yourself. The EOS-5D MK III has also come down in price as well and one can find good deals on the Internet either new or refurbished. Visit my website MichaelDanielHo.com to see photos taken with both cameras.

Canon EOS-6D Assembled In 40 Minutes

Canon assembly line in Kyushu, Japan

Engineers in the Canon factory located in Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan, took Exposure Magazine and other journalists from Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka and Pakistan for a tour of the production facility recently.

The visitors were shown the production line of the Canon EOS-6D, the most compact and lightest full-frame camera in the world needs only 40 minutes to assemble. The manufacturing line at the factory consists of 15 tables combining men and machines in the working process.

Mr. Mitsuo Mashiko, General Manager at the Oita facility, greeted all the journalists and accompanied them for lunch and the factory tour. Table #1 in the assembly line is where CMOS sensors are installed. Additional parts and assemblies are put together on other tables. At Table #7, screws are inserted and tightened automatically. The automation of screw installation is an innovation by Oita team members. Workers at Table #9 are assigned to final inspection, to make sure there are no dust and defects on the cameras. Various inspections continue until Table #15, where the EOS-6D cameras are finally packaged and ready for shipment.

An unmanned vehicle resembling a walking rack, containing various camera components moved and stopped automatically around the assembly cells. The vehicle was the result of a drive to further automate the production process. “Every camera is tested, before being packaged and shipped,” said Ishikawa Yasumi, Manager of the Assembly Department.

All cameras have to pass electronic, mechanical and photographic tests before shipment. Mr. Yashumi showed the journalists a video on automation to test the function of buttons on the cameras. There was another video showing further tests for light metering accuracy. Behind the assembly area of the EOS-6D, the same production process applies to the manufacturing of the EOS-5D Mk III, EOS-7D, EOS-M and other camcorders.

The EOS-6D is the smallest and lightest, full frame DSLR camera on the market today. It is a good camera for those who want to enter the world of digital, full frame photography. You can read my posts analyzing the EOS-6D on my Blog and see photos taken with the camera on my website MichaelDanielHo.com