Translate this blog into your language

Showing posts with label Canon EOS Rebel Cameras. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Canon EOS Rebel Cameras. Show all posts

Thursday, February 6, 2020

Canon Rebel T8i or EOS 850D DSLR camera coming soon








Canon is expected to announce the Rebel T8i / EOS 850D camera before the CP+ Show in late February, 2020. This new camera will breath some new life into the Rebel line until Canon decides whether to announce an APS-C mirrorless camera, perhaps later this year.

Rumored specs of the upcoming Canon Rebel T8i / EOS 850D body :

  • A new 24.1MP CMOS sensor
  • DIGIC 8 processor
  • 45 AF points (all cross-type)
  • 7 fps burst rate
  • Video in 4K @ 30P
  • 3″ 1.04 million pixel touch panel vari-angle LCD
  • Size : 131.0 x 102.6 x 76.2mm
  • Weight : 515g  Slightly lighter than its predecessor

Monday, July 23, 2018

Find Out The Actuation Count Of Your Canon EOS Camera




Get shutter actuations count of your Canon EOS camera!

EOS Inspector displays a shutter actuations count of your Canon EOS camera, so you can easily check whether a newly purchased camera is really brand new, or how heavily used a secondhand item is. You can avoid a visit to a service center by doing the diagnostic yourself.

FEATURES

Device Overview

Important details about your camera, such as serial number, battery charge level, possible shots and firmware version are presented as soon as you connect your camera via USB cable.

Shutter Actuations Info

EOS Inspector displays a shutter actuations count along with a shutter’s rated lifespan (that varies from camera to camera) so you can easily see the percent of its wear. For modern EOS cameras Live View related actuations are also displayed.

For newer cameras you’ll get even more! Most EOS cameras released since 2015 (such as the 1D X Mark II, 5D Mark IV and 5DS) provide more details on shutter’s usage. You’ll get separate values for photos taken through the viewfinder, photos taken via the Live View and a number of Live View sessions. All these values are presented visually on the detalization bar.

Customisation of User Fields

Depending on a concrete model, Canon EOS cameras support up to three user-customizable fields that are used to populate metadata of your photos. EOS Inspector gives you a convenient way to change owner, author and copyright settings of your camera.

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

One-click camera report sharing

Easily share a report that contains a summary information about your camera such as serial number and detailed shutter actuations info.

65 cameras supported

EOS Inspector is tested and confirmed to be working with 65 Canon EOS cameras, including the recent ones like 1D X Mark II, 5D Mark IV and 5DS.

One-time purchase

After a one-time purchase you get a full-featured app without any implied restrictions. There are also no in-app purchases and no limits on a number of shutter count readings.

WHY USE EOS INSPECTOR?

Buying or selling a camera online?
Use EOS Inspector to determine whether or not the camera that is listed as new is really brand new or estimate/verify the value of a previously used item.

Running a camera rental shop?

Use EOS Inspector to track different cameras usage to predict failures and estimate costs related to shutter mechanism replacement in future.

SUPPORTED CAMERAS

EOS Inspector supports shutter information retrieval from the following Canon EOS cameras :

1D X, 1D X Mark II, 1D C, 5DS, 5DS R, 5D Mark II, 5D Mark III, 5D Mark IV, 6D, 6D Mark II, 7D, 7D Mark II, 40D, 50D, 60D, 60Da, 70D, 77D, 80D, 100D, 200D, 450D, 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D, 750D, 760D, 800D, 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D, 8000D, 9000D;

Rebel SL1, SL2, XS, XSi, T1i, T2i, T3, T3i, T4i, T5, T5i, T6, T6i, T6s, T7i;

Kiss X2, X3, X4, X5, X6i, X7, X7i, X8i, X9, X9i, F, X50, X70, X80;

Check out EOS Inspector 2 at the Apple MacOS App Store $2.99 (Reg $4.99)

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Canon Tops For 12th Straight Year In ILC Market




TOKYO, March 26, 2015 - Canon Inc. announced today that the Company's interchangeable-lens digital cameras (digital SLR and compact-system cameras) have maintained the No.1 share worldwide in terms of volume within the interchangeable-lens digital camera market for the 12-year period spanning 2003 to 2014.1

Canon develops the key components, namely the CMOS image sensors, image processors and interchangeable lenses, employed in its interchangeable-lens cameras. The most advanced of these technologies are incorporated across the Company's entire product lineup, spanning from professional-use flagship cameras to entry-level models, enabling the Company to maintain the top global share by offering a robust product lineup that effectively responds to the needs of a wide range of users.

In 2003, the dawn of digital SLR cameras, Canon introduced its breakthrough EOS Kiss Digital (EOS Digital Rebel or EOS 300D Digital in other regions). This groundbreaking camera, which featured a compact, lightweight design and was offered at a competitive price, set the stage for growth in the digital SLR market and enabled the Company to capture the top share of the global market. Since that time, Canon has continued to launch epoch-making new products, including the EOS-1D series of digital SLR cameras targeting professional users, and the EOS 5D series, which paved the way for digital SLR video recording thanks to its full-frame sensor employing a video-capture function.

In October 2014, targeting advanced-amateur users, Canon launched the EOS 7D Mark II, which has garnered high acclaim from the market for its fast continuous shooting speed of 10 frames per second and superior autofocus performance. It is thanks to Canon's impressive camera lineup, including the EOS 7D Mark II, that the Company has maintained the No. 1 share in the market for 12 years running. Furthermore, in April 2014, Canon celebrated an impressive lens-manufacturing milestone with the production of its 100 millionth EF-series interchangeable lens for EOS cameras. The Company's extensive EF lens-series lineup, which currently comprises a total of 97 models,2 is one of Canon's biggest strengths, helping the EOS series to realize a wide spectrum of imaging possibilities and rich visual expression.

Aiming to further strengthen its wide product lineup, Canon introduced five new camera models in February of this year. The new lineup comprises the EOS 5DS and 5DS R, which achieve the world's highest pixel count among 35 mm full-frame sensor digital SLR cameras,3 the EOS 8000D (EOS Rebel T6s or 760D) and EOS Kiss X8i (EOS Rebel T6i or 750D in other regions) entry-level digital SLR cameras, and the EOS M3 digital compact-system camera, which achieves greatly enhanced AF performance.

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Canon Rebel T6i and EF 11-24mm f/4L Coming


Canon EOS Rebel T6i camera


Canon EF 11-24mm f/4L super wide angle zoom lens


                          * * *  Canon EOS Rebel T6i and T6s officially announced  * * *


The camera that was leaked last week in the Canon Connect Station announcement is indeed the EOS Rebel T6i as reported. It should be announced around the CP+ Photo and Imaging Show in Japan starting on February 12.

The EF 11-24mm f/4L super wide angle lens reported earlier will also be coming some time in 1Q of 2015. This is Canon first 'L' entry into the super wide angle zoom lens and the price will be commensurate with its IQ and build, in the neighborhood of around $3,000. Keep checking back for more details on both.

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Canon Patents Plastic/Resin DSLR Mount




The Japanese photography blog, Egami, has discovered a new Canon patent detailing a metal and plastic resin mount for DSLR cameras. The plastic component of the mount may facilitate smoother mounting and dismounting of lenses. In addition, there maybe some weight and cost reduction for lower priced cameras like the EOS Rebel line as well.

Canon has been researching into new materials for their cameras and lenses for years. The newer, higher end cameras like the EOS-1D, EOS-5D and EOS-7D Mk II and the Series II Super Telephoto lenses all have new magnesium alloy in their construction to add strength and reduce weight. A new formula with the combination of metal and plastic may be the next stage of weight reduction for future designs.

Patent Publication No. 2014-240858 (Google Translated)

  •     Published 2014.12.25
  •     Filing date 2013.6.11

Canon Patent

  •     Of bayonet mechanism mount
  •     Mounting an inner peripheral portion of the body has a concave rail surfaces of metal
  •     Mount the outer periphery of having a rail surface of the convex shape in the resin
  •     That resin rail than the metal rail, I have a narrow width and high height

Monday, July 14, 2014

Canon PowerShot SX60 HS Coming Before Photokina 2014






Canon was expected to announce the PowerShot SX60 HS camera with a 100X zoom some time in June. Clearly it did not happen and word is Canon had experience manufacturing problem. This camera will be the replacement to the popular SX50 model and may come with the new DIGIC 6 processor, a 15MP sensor and a 20-2000mm focal length capability.

My sources told me the SX60 will be announced before Photokina on September 16. Since Canon already has big plans for the show, with the EOS-7D Mk II camera and EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II lens on their plate, the PowerShot SX60 HS will probably get a different announcement date. I suspect it will be slightly before the two big aforementioned debut.

Out in the field, I have come across people with the PowerShot SX50. If the lighting conditions are good and the wildlife is not too far and in the open, one can get a fairly decent photo. There are occasions I have missed my shots by the time I got my equipment out and others have already taken the shots with their SX50 cameras. However, I am just a bit curious about the Image Quality of the upcoming SX60, with an equivalent 2000mm lens all in the palm of my hand. I will give the camera a try out once it is available. You can see my work on MichaelDanielHo.com

Friday, July 11, 2014

When and How to use a Polarizer Filter




There are very few situations in wildlife photography that call for the use of a polarizer filter. I am not a proponent of using software to apply filtering effects after the image has been taken. I prefer to do it right in the first place and use a thin Hoya and B&W circular polarizer for my travel and landscape photography needs. You can see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com 

How To Share Photos On Canon iMAGE Gateway





Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Video Review




Canon announced two wide angle lenses in May and their list prices are surprisingly 'cheap.' The EF 16-35mm f/4L IS is what I am interested in and with a 4 stop IS system, it may find a place in my equipment bag.

You can see images taken with the EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS and EF 16-35mm f/4L IS lens on Canon's China website. You can see the video review of the EF 16-35mm f/4L lens here. I am not enamored of the EF-S 10-18mm len's speed and will not be interested in this glass but it is available in camera stores now and you can see the video review above.

MichaelDanielHo.com

Monday, June 23, 2014

Canon EOS-6D Auto Exposure Bracketing Tutorial


Canon USA has put out a tutorial video on how to use Auto Exposure Bracketing on the full frame EOS-6D camera. I am not a big fan of this camera although it can be a good value for those who are limited in their equipment budget. See the other videos on multiple exposures and in camera HDR as well.

Read my post on the EOS-5D vs. EOS-6D comparison and my guide to the best Canon DSLR cameras. You can see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com 


Saturday, June 21, 2014

Canon Quick Tips - Photographing Fireworks




4th of July is just around the corner. Canon Digital Learning Center has put out an article on how to photograph fireworks. Keep experimenting and happy shooting. Below is the article in its entirety.

Fireworks are one of the most inspiring and photogenic, yet challenging subjects, to capture. And unfortunately, this is one of those shooting situations where fully automatic exposure and focusing may not help. However, with these tricks up your sleeve, a few accessories and a willingness to experiment, you'll capture amazing fireworks photos this Fourth of July!
Setting up for fireworks

Try to arrive early enough to scout out a good location to take pictures from. You don’t necessarily need to be close to where the fireworks will be launched from, but you want to be sure you’ll have a clear, unobstructed view of open sky where you expect them to explode. The closer you are to the fireworks, the more you’ll have to aim the camera upward to capture them, and the wider a lens you’ll generally need to get them into the frame without cutting part of the fireworks out of the picture.

Be aware of factors like wind. Fireworks produce smoke and if you’re downwind from where they’re launched from, you’ll be shooting through a veil of smoke that’ll interfere with your color, sharpness and exposure after the first few bursts.

And of course, try to find a location where you won’t be partially blocked by other people viewing the fireworks and, likewise, where you won’t be an obstruction to others in attendance. You won’t be able to avoid crowds completely — but by arriving early, you hopefully can find a location that combines a clear view and is a bit offset from crowds of people.

Bring a few things to keep you comfortable: a portable lawn chair, mosquito repellent and perhaps a lightweight long-sleeve shirt to minimize problems with biting insects on summer nights. Since you may be waiting around for a while for the show to start, don’t forget things like water. A small, clean hand towel can be helpful on hot nights to prevent sweat from getting onto the camera or your lens. And while it’s not a comfort item, a small flashlight can be invaluable for changing camera settings after dark.

Camera Settings: Exposure modes

Get out of AUTO! With near-black nighttime skies and the illumination from bright, thin streaks of fireworks, this is one instance where your camera’s automatic exposure system simply can’t be expected to deliver proper results. In all likelihood, Evaluative Metering and auto exposure in an EOS camera will try to render the dark skies to a middle shade of gray and, in doing so, grossly wash-out your fireworks. There’s a better answer:

Turn your camera’s mode dial to “M” for Manual and manually select a shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Or, set the camera to its “Bulb” setting — more on that in a moment.

Even though we speak at length about dialing-in your own specific shutter speeds, this is one instance where (usually) shutter-priority (the Tv mode) on your camera won’t be an ideal choice. Like any form of automatic exposure, the Tv mode can be fooled by broad expanses of dark sky and end up over-exposing the fireworks you’re hoping to capture.
Camera Settings: Shutter speeds

Long exposures at slow shutter speeds are the norm for photographing fireworks. Most shooters experiment with long shutter speeds anywhere from one full second to 30 seconds or longer for fireworks. These relatively long exposures will allow the burst from the fireworks to produce moving streaks, which can be stunning against a dark sky. There’s no “right” shutter speed here, so many users will try different speeds to get a feel for the sorts of fireworks pictures that result. With the camera set to Manual exposure mode, simply turn the Main Dial on top of the camera to set the speed you want to use.

Since many digital SLR shooters rarely venture into the range of slow shutter speeds, it’s helpful to remember that with all Canon EOS cameras, any shutter speed of one full second or longer is indicated by two “quote marks” after the number displayed in the viewfinder and on the body’s information panel. In other words :

    5" = five full seconds shutter speed
    0' '5 = one half-second shutter speed
    5 = one fifth-second (1/5) shutter speed

When manually dialing-in shutter speeds for fireworks, most users will want to see speeds with the two digital quote marks displayed after the number. Remember, the longer the shutter speed, the longer the trails of light for each fireworks burst will be in your images.
Multiple fireworks bursts in one image:

At longer shutter speeds, such as 10 seconds or more, it’s sometimes possible for two or more fireworks to be captured in one single exposure. How multiple bursts of fireworks will line up in a picture is unpredictable, but it’s definitely something to experiment with. You can dial-in timed shutter speeds as long as 30 seconds with all Canon EOS cameras. But for shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds, you’ll need to switch to the BULB setting, where you can hold the shutter open for as long as the shutter button is kept in its fully depressed position.

BULB with EOS Rebel models :

Set camera to Manual (M) mode; turn top Main Dial to progressively slower shutter speeds, until “BULB” is displayed

Most other EOS models :

Turn Mode Dial to “B” setting. With EOS-1D and 1Ds series models, press MODE button and turn top Main Dial until “bulb” appears on top LCD info panel

Camera settings : Lens apertures

Manual exposure mode requires you to set an appropriate lens aperture, as well as shutter speed. Here are a few points to keep in mind:

There is no “correct” aperture for fireworks shooting! In general, especially at longer shutter speeds (such as eight seconds or longer), you’ll want to stop the lens down to smaller apertures, such as f/11 or thereabouts, to ensure the fireworks aren’t over-exposed and washed-out.
Smaller lens openings (higher f-numbers, such as f/16) will tend to give you thinner fireworks streaks with richer color saturation and less tendency to wash-out (especially if more than one burst of fireworks appears in the same image). 

If you do use shorter shutter speeds (such as 1 second), this is an instance where you should start out at wider lens apertures, such as f/4 or f/2.8. Adjust as needed after shooting and viewing the first few fireworks shots you take.

Don’t pay attention to the metering scale in your viewfinder! Normally a reliable tool when setting exposure in Manual mode, this scale will read the dark sky and try to guide you into a middle-gray rendering of this dark expanse — exactly what you don’t want in fireworks pictures. Set an initial shutter speed and lens aperture in Manual mode, shoot a picture or two and look at them on your LCD monitor. Adjust shutter speed and/or lens aperture as needed but, again, fireworks are an unusual type of photographic subject, so ignore that metering scale!

Be sure you know how to set lens apertures in Manual or Bulb mode with your camera. With EOS Rebel models, press the Av/± button (hold it in) and turn the top Main Dial. For other EOS models, turn the large Quick Control Dial on the back of the camera to adjust aperture when in Manual and Bulb mode.
Camera settings: ISOs

Even though you’re shooting the nighttime sky, fireworks are generally a situation where you want low ISO settings. Unless you’re trying to use shutter speeds faster than perhaps 1/8 or 1/4 of a second, we normally would suggest manually dialing-in low ISOs such as 100 or 200.

Once again, we usually suggest that you bypass the Auto ISO settings in your camera. They are a potentially valuable asset in “normal” daylight shooting conditions, but fireworks represent an unusual type of lighting that doesn’t lend itself well to most types of automatic exposure control.
Image Controls in EOS cameras

Aside from the exposure control settings we recommend above as good starting points for fireworks, there are a couple of other settings you may want to consider which can impact the image quality of your fireworks pictures:

Highlight Tone Priority

This can be a big benefit in fireworks pictures — helping to add color and vitality to streaks of fireworks, and minimizing that washed-out look to bright highlight areas. It can be set with nearly any recent EOS camera, and works at any shutter speed. About its only limitation is that when it’s active, the lowest available ISO speed is now 200, rather than ISO 100. Regardless, this is a setting that should be strongly considered.

Neutral Picture Style

This will similarly tend to reduce contrast, expand your dynamic range, and give you color in bright fireworks streaks that might have been rendered as a washed-out, bordering-on-white tone at factory-default settings. Fireworks pictures are rarely about increasing detail in dark sky tones — we usually want them to be dark in the finished pictures — but anything that can enhance bright highlights in your fireworks is helpful.  These two features are worth trying the next time you shoot fireworks images.

Supporting and firing your camera

There’s no getting around it: a firm support (ideally, a tripod) is mandatory for satisfactory results when shooting fireworks. Even if you’re using an image stabilized lens, the likelihood that you can hand-hold that and the camera completely steadily at slow shutter speeds, like one second or longer, is pretty slim.

Once the camera is mounted on the tripod, you’re still faced with firing it without the risk of having the camera shake from your finger pressing the shutter button. Anything you can do to minimize the impact from physically pressing the shutter button is helpful. Here are some of your options:

Use the self-timer

Activating the camera’s self-timer still requires you to press the shutter, but gives either a 2-10 second delay before the shutter actually fires — giving the camera a few moments to “settle down” from any shaking after the camera was touched. The problem is that you no longer can precisely time your shots to match when a fireworks rocket is launched upward. But at longer speeds, when you expect to have the shutter open to capture multiple bursts, the self-timer may be a viable option.

Use an accessory Canon Remote Controller

An electronic remote control switch (sometimes generically referred to as an “electronic cable release”) is a short cable that connects to the camera and has its own shutter button. By pressing this button, you can trigger the shutter without directly transferring shake to the camera and lens. One huge benefit of the Remote Controllers is that their shutter button can be physically locked in its fully depressed position with a sliding lock switch, allowing the camera’s shutter to remain open steadily for long Bulb exposures.

Here is a list of which Canon Remote Controllers work on which EOS cameras :

Canon Remote

EOS Digital Rebels (all); EOS 60D; EOS 70D :  Remote Controller RS60-E3

EOS 5D series (all); EOS 6D; EOS 7D; EOS 10D - 50D : Remote Controller RS80-N3, Timer Remote Controller TC80-N3

EOS-1D, EOS-1Ds (all versions) : Remote Controller RS80-N3, Timer Remote Controller TC80-N3

Use an accessory wireless infrared remote control

Canon also makes cordless remote controllers, which fire an infrared beam to trigger the shutter on compatible EOS cameras. The compact and affordable RC-1, RC-5 and RC-6 remote controllers work with specific EOS models, allowing them to be fired up to about 15 feet from the camera. The professional-grade LC-5 remote controller is a set with a separate transmitter and receiver for cameras compatible with the “N3” type remotes listed above. The shooter can be up to about 300 feet (100m) from the camera with the LC-5.

Unlike the cord-type remote controllers, the infrared cordless ones cannot hold the shutter open in Bulb mode. They can, however, be used when you manually set a shutter speed, down to 30 seconds.
    
Use your Android or iOS mobile device to remotely fire select EOS cameras

The EOS 6D is the first Canon EOS model to have built-in Wi-Fi capability. One option with this system is to download Canon’s free “EOS Remote” app to your phone, connect the camera and phone, then remotely fire the camera from the phone. You can even see a live view of the scene through the lens of the camera on the phone before you fire it, then see the finished image after it’s taken. The phone can be up to about 100 feet (30m) from the camera. Bulb mode can be used with EOS Remote and your mobile device, with the camera’s shutter remaining open as long as you keep the button on the phone’s LCD screen depressed (there is no separate locking switch for long bulb exposures). To check out other features the EOS 6D is capable of, check out our on-camera tutorials.

Techniques for taking fireworks pictures

Option 1: Bulb mode for one fireworks burst

With the camera pre-positioned and set to Bulb mode, watch for a fireworks shell to be launched upward. Press the shutter button to open the shutter and keep it open for the burst to occur. Wait a few moments after the initial burst to record the streaks and any secondary bursts that may occur. Then remove your finger from the button to end the Bulb exposure.

Option 2: Bulb mode for multiple bursts

Same as above, but after the first burst, keep the shutter open for another burst or two. Don’t go overboard, because as multiple bursts on one image build-up, you can easily run into over-exposure. Depending upon where each appears on the image, the beauty of individual bursts can become more of a jumble of random streaks. Two or three bursts can be effective, but don’t feel like you have to keep the shutter open for a minute or longer — you’ll likely just over-expose the scene.

Option 3: Bulb mode for long exposures — the “Baseball hat technique”

Leaving the camera’s shutter open for long periods in Bulb mode to capture multiple bursts can be effective when they occur in quick succession, but (especially early on in a fireworks show), some time may occur between each shell launch. If you’re looking to get multiple bursts in this situation, bring an opaque baseball cap to cover the lens in between each burst while the shutter remains open in Bulb mode. This is especially easy if you’re using an accessory electronic remote switch with a locking shutter button.

Let the camera capture the first explosion, then immediately (and gently) drape the baseball hat over the lens, to cover it. Leave the shutter open, with the remote’s button still in its locked position. When the next bursts go skyward, remove the hat to expose the imaging sensor and after it’s completed, “cover” the lens with the hat again. Don’t mix too many fireworks bursts this way, but experiment with different numbers of them. When you’ve got enough for one picture, slide the locking switch to unlock the remote’s shutter button and the exposure ends. You’re ready for the next bulb-timed picture. If you don't have a baseball hat, any solid object large enough to fully cover the front of the lens should work fine (such as a piece of cardboard).

Option 4: Use faster shutter speeds to “freeze” a fireworks burst

Unlike many shooters who use long shutter exposures, Canon Product Educator Jim Dicecco has had great success using shorter speeds.

Jim explains: “Fireworks are much easier to shoot than most people expect. However, you do need to plan ahead. Here is my usual equipment: a digital camera, a wide-angle zoom lens (my favorite focal length for shooting fireworks with a full-frame camera is about 24mm, or a 15mm lens on cameras like an EOS Rebel or 70D), a remote shutter release and a small tripod.

“My camera settings are usually:  ISO 100, Bulb mode (generally held open for about half a second to two seconds) and the aperture all the way open (usually around f/2.8, f/3.5 or f/4 depending on the lens). Focus is usually set to infinity but the first few fireworks can help establish focus. I prefer using cameras with Live View so I can watch while I'm shooting. When the shot is taken, it is all about timing. I look for the rockets to take off and try to time the explosion. I use the remote release so not to move the camera and hold down the button watching as the fireworks expand to the point where I want to stop the exposure. It’s all about timing the expansion of the display in the air. Post-production consists mostly of cropping since composition was difficult to control under these circumstances (one reason for the wide angle lens).

“Finally, don’t even think of trying to use flash! It won’t help capture distant fireworks though it will help illuminate objects or people in the foreground if you want to take portraits with fireworks in the background.”

Focusing the lens

Now, turn the focus ring until you’re set at infinity focus. Some Canon lenses have a distance scale printed on them for this purpose, but others (like the popular EF-S 18-55mm kit lens) do not. If you don’t have a distance scale, with the lens set to “MF” and the front of the lens facing you (as if you’re staring into the lens), turn the focus ring with your fingers clockwise until it stops. Now leave it there and do not set it back to “AF” until you’re done shooting fireworks.
Digital “noise” in long exposures

Any time a digital camera’s shutter is held open for longer than a few seconds, for technical reasons, it’s possible to see an increase in visible digital “noise” in the picture. This is sort of like film grain or the “snow” you might see on a TV screen with weak reception. As shutter speeds get progressively longer (10 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute and so on), this noise can build up and become increasingly apparent. Most Canon EOS digital SLRs have an available feature called “Long Exposure Noise Reduction,” which can be activated by either a Custom Function or menu setting.

Some users wonder why this noise reduction feature isn’t always on at all times. The answer is that using it can slow down your shooting of one picture after another. To do its job, Long Exposure Noise Reduction has to re-energize your imaging sensor and take a “blank” exposure, after your actual picture is taken, for the same length of time. During this time, you cannot shoot another picture — the red card “busy light” on the back of the camera stays on until the process is completed. If you shoot a 30 second exposure, the camera has to be tied-up for an additional 30 full seconds to process before your next picture can be taken. This can be a problem during rapid repeating bursts of fireworks.

As a practical matter, the noise build-up at shutter speeds of 30 seconds or shorter (10 seconds, 1 second and so on) is so minimal that you’re usually better off leaving this noise reduction off for fireworks shooting. But if you do anticipate using the “baseball hat” technique and utilizing longer bulb exposure times, you may find a noticeable quality boost if this feature is set to on. Long Exposure Noise Reduction only applies to images taken at shutter speeds of one second or longer and is ignored at shorter speeds like 1/2 second, 1/60th and so on. Finally, don’t confuse this with “High ISO Noise Reduction” on your camera’s menu. They’re two separate and independent things.
Your camera’s battery life during long exposures

Generally, the battery in an EOS digital SLR can power the camera for hundreds of pictures in ordinary daylight conditions. But longer shutter speeds require more battery power to hold the shutter open and build-up exposure on the imaging sensor. If you shoot a series of long exposures, you definitely need to be aware that batteries won’t last as long. For long exposures, camera makers rate the battery power in terms of total length of time a freshly charged battery can hold the shutter open. Here are a few examples supplied by Canon’s engineers at 73°F/23°C — keep in mind that these don’t factor-in use of the LCD monitor, such as Live View shooting, or playing-back images during shooting:

    EOS Rebel series: Approx. 2 ~ 2.5 hours
    EOS 60D: Approx. 6 hours
    EOS 70D: Approx. 4 hours
    EOS 7D, EOS 50D: Approx. 2.5 hours
    EOS 5D Mark II and Mark III: Approx. 4 hours

Most Canon EOS digital SLRs accept an optional Battery Grip, which does allow the photographer to install one or two rechargeable batteries. With two batteries installed, any of the above figures would be doubled. Battery grips with an extra battery pack can be a great accessory for extensive shooting of fireworks displays.

Composition in fireworks shots

No matter what kind of subjects or photography we’re speaking of, great pictures begin with great composition — that is, the placement and arrangement of subjects in the image.

Fireworks pictures are no different, but they present a challenge since you can’t see your final subject until it explodes in the night sky and you’re actually capturing it.

You don’t always want to be among the spectators closest to the fireworks themselves. By backing off and occasionally using a telephoto lens, it’s sometimes easier to get good, sharp images of a burst of fireworks, compared to looking upward with a wider-angle lens.

Look at the first burst or two to judge how much of the sky they take up, how high they go and what lens(es) will be appropriate for the types of shots you’re looking for. Remember, you can back-off with a wide-angle lens and incorporate more of the surrounding area (possibly a powerful technique near a city skyline) or you can zoom in with more of a telephoto lens to emphasize the colors from the fireworks themselves with less emphasis on the surrounding sky.

Just as when you’re shooting pictures of people, consider whether to use horizontal or vertical composition. Try to look through the viewfinder during the first burst or two to judge what will most effectively fill the frame and the amount of background information you want. Also, don’t let your eyes play tricks on you when you look through your viewfinder or use the Live View feature on your camera: it’s easy to concentrate visually on the fireworks’ burst as it happens and lose sight of the fact that there may be large black areas of surrounding sky that you’re not taking into account. Always try to judge the position and size of the subject in the context of the entire picture area, from corner to corner. The Live View feature of many recent EOS models can be useful to get an idea from the first burst or two of how the frame will be filled.

Try mixing things up as you shoot the show. Change lens apertures, alter the number of bursts you capture on a single frame, vary your zoom setting, shoot some pictures with foreground details and others where you’re zoomed in more on the sky. The more you shoot, the better the chances of some really exciting pictures.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

25 Photo Cliches To Avoid And Stand Apart


The guy at DigitalRev is at it again. This time he lampoons the 'mundane' photos many photographers think it is de rigueur to take. There is some truth to his arguments. To each his own, I always say. You can see my works at MichaelDanielHo.com


Canon EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM Announced


Canon EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM lens


* * *  Tamron also announced the 18-200mm lens for EOS-M mount  * * *


United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland, 17 June 2014 – Canon today announces a new addition to its EF-M lens range with the introduction of its first dedicated telephoto zoom lens – the EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM. Designed for Canon’s Compact System Camera, the EOS M, the new EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM features Canon's signature optical performance, advanced Stepping Motor Technology (STM), a 3.5-stop optical Image Stabilizer, and provides a versatile 55-200mm focal range to help users get closer to the subjects they love

Taking you closer

The EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM joins three existing lenses in the EF-M range, which together offer a diverse variety of focal lengths from 11-200mm. The perfect addition to any EOS M kit bag, the new lens opens additional creative possibilities for EOS M shooters through its suitability to capture a wide selection of scenes – from eye-catching portraits at 55mm, to wildlife at 200mm.

Leading optical technologies for incredible images

Developed using the company’s unparalleled optical expertise, the EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM features Canon’s powerful optical Image Stabilizer and STM technology to deliver outstanding levels of detail when shooting stills and movies. When shooting movies specifically, STM technology ensures smooth focus transitions, as focus shifts from one subject to another. The STM mechanism also provides near-silent focusing, giving videographers the ability to shoot movie soundtracks which capture the natural ambience of the scene in front of them. Additionally, thanks to a highly-effective 3.5-stop optical Image Stabilizer, which reduces visible camera shake, users can also shoot sharp stills while using the zoom, and steady movies while capturing action.

Designed to make great photography easy

Constructed of a high quality metal exterior – a trademark of the EF-M lens range – the EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM is also compact, lightweight and portable, making it ideal for everyday use. Inside the lens, an Ultra-low Dispersion (UD) element delivers outstanding image quality throughout the zoom range. Furthermore, its non-rotating front element makes it easy to maintain a consistent effect when using filters, and the full-time manual focus ring offers greater creative freedom to adjust focus during shooting.

Key Features

  •     Get closer to the action with your EOS-M camera
  •     Image Stabilizer keeps images sharp
  •     Compact enough to go anywhere
  •     Smooth, near-silent STM focusing
  •     Make quick adjustments with a manual focus ring
  •     Shoot great quality images – full of sharp details and rich colour

Pricing and availability

The EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3 IS STM is available from July with a SRP £329.99/€389.99.

MichaelDanielHo.com


Sunday, June 15, 2014

Canon EOS-6D Camera Tutorial Video


I am not a fan of the Canon EOS-6D although this camera can be a good value for those who want to enter the world of full frame photography but does not have enough funds to buy a better camera. Read my earlier post on the Canon EOS-5D Mk III vs. EOS-6D comparison and finally, the Nikon D600 is added in for the three way comparison.

You can read my guide to the best Canon cameras and see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com


Thursday, June 12, 2014

Canon Service Center Advice On Battery Care


I have been a wildlife photographer for 25 years using Canon gear and have gone on many photo shoots worldwide. This Canon video offers an abundance of caution and information on battery care.

When I am photographing in the Arctic, keeping the batteries working in top shape is crucial and proper battery care is essential. You can read my FAQs on equipment and see my work on MichaelDanielHo.com


Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Canon Camera Gear Care For Photo Snobs


A bit of levity and common sense from DigitalRev on how to take care of your cameras and gear. For a bit more sedated camera care advice, take a look at this video from Canon Service Center. You can read my advice on Canon cameras and lenses and see my works on MichaelDanielHo.com


10 Apple iPhone Tricks You Must Know


* * *  See the latest camera features on the upcoming iOS 8  * * *


The guys at DigitalRev is at it again. This time they show you some neat tricks for the Apple iPhone and its camera. For the rest of us who use real cameras, check out these tips and tricks for the Canon EOS-1D X and EOS-5D Mk III. You can see my works taken with Canon cameras on MichaelDanielHo.com


Sunday, June 8, 2014

Canon Rebel T5i With 18-55mm Kit for $400


Canon Rebel T5i with 18-135mm IS STM lens

There is a top-rated merchant on eBay selling the Canon Rebel T5i with the 18-55mm IS II camera kit for $400. This is an excellent choice and my pick as the best beginner's DSLR camera.

I am not affiliated with any camera stores or online web companies and do not make any commission or accept ads from anyone. All my recommendations are independent and unbiased. You can see my work on worldwide photo shoots on MichaelDanielHo.com

Canon EOS-60D Camera For $600


Canon EOS-60D with 18-135mm IS STM lens

There is a top-rated merchant on eBay selling the Canon EOS-60D camera for $600. This is an excellent deal and a good choice for those who have outgrown the Rebel series and want a slightly more serious DSLR body.

I am not affiliated with any camera stores or online web companies and do not make any commission or accept ads from anyone. All my recommendations are independent and unbiased. You can see my work on worldwide photo shoots on MichaelDanielHo.com

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Can A $100 Canon Camera Take Good Photos?


DigitalRev is at it again. This time they are proving one does not need a bus load of money and gear to get decent photos. In fact, this guy I know takes excellent photos with slide films on a manual SLR (worth less than $100) and lenses with no electronics in them.

They also put out an 'entertaining' video on how to fool others by being a fake professional photographer. On the other hand, I have been a real wildlife photographer for 25 years using Canon gear. You can read my FAQs on equipment and see my work on MichaelDanielHo.com